Author Topic: Old Adler Barbour Trouble  (Read 6605 times)

FrankP

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Old Adler Barbour Trouble
« on: April 15, 2014, 01:09:37 am »
Hello!
I have a 1993 vintage AB cold machine in my freezer and it is exhibiting similar problems that I have seen in other posts where the unit will not stay running and is cycling on and off with an audible "beep".  However, when I shut the unit off at the breaker and restart it the next day it will run and start cooling down the box.  When I come back the next day it has started its stop/start cycles with the beeps.  Also, when I restart it after a 24 hour shut down and let it run for a few hours I found that I do not have any control with thermostat.  That is, I can usually turn the thermostat way down and get an audible "click" in the relay to shut the compressor off.  I am sure it is cooling since the cold plate is frosting up and the box is cold.  Is this a thermostat issue or something else?

Thank you for this great website!
Frank   

Richard

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Re: Old Adler Barbour Trouble
« Reply #1 on: April 15, 2014, 02:13:12 pm »
Because you hear the beep it is not a thermostat problem it is compressor's electronic control module seeing a low voltage spike during start or Fan is drawing too much current I am assuming no one has added or tampered with refrigerant.

Troubleshooting 4 pin modules consists of the following:

1. Place jumper wire across thermostat terminals, Compressor still does not run.

2. Disconnect black fan wire from electronic module, Compressor runs replace fan. Compressor still does not run after fan ground wire is disconnected. If one of the 10 transistors in this fan fail it can cause module to prevent compressor from running.

3. Run correct size and correct polarity fused jumper wires direct from a fully charged battery to module in order to bypass all boat’s wiring. Volt meter readings are of no value, Compressor still does not run electronic module needs to be tested on another unit.

I closed my shop but after seeing what is being charged by boat refrigeration companies  who will test modules charging $50 and charging as high as $385 for new 4 pin modules, I decided to test and sell modules for a fraction of what is currently being charged.

If your shipping address is in the US I will test your module on my Danfoss compressor refrigeration test stand.  This test stand will run at max compressor load for a one hour. I will  then return your module to you for a shipping and handling charge of  $20.  Ship module with return address and a personal check for $20 to:
Richard Kollmann
2430 Sugarloaf LN
Ft. Lauderdale FL 33312

New replacement Module

If you wish to purchase a new or serviceable unit from me later I currently have the following four pin modules:

Four pin modules for BD2, BD2.5 and BD3   twelve volt compressors only:
 
No used modules available at this time.

New module non Danfoss    With improved cooling.  $150  plus $15 shipping.

Modules will only be shipped to addresses in the US. If you want to purchase a new replacement module send personal check for $165 and return address to:

Richard Kollmann
2430 Sugarloaf LN
Ft. Lauderdale FL 33312


Because your unit is old and if it needs a new electronic module there is a risk that something is wrong that caused module to fail so most companies will refuse warranty of these modules. This is my electronic module warranty:
Any new module I sell can be returned for full credit without question within 30 days . Because of my own risk involved for the next 11 months I will return only 50% of the new units purchase price if module is returned within the first year.
 
Richard Kollmann


FrankP

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Re: Old Adler Barbour Trouble
« Reply #2 on: April 15, 2014, 03:54:29 pm »
Thanks Rich,
As I noted, if i go down to the boat today and turn on the breaker, the unit will start-up and begin cooling (no one has touched the refrigierant for 2 years).  After a day or so the unit will begin its cycle problem.  From your trouble shooting descrition, off the cuff it sounds like one of the fans are dieing and begines acting up over a few hours of operation.....I will start there with your trouble shooting instructions.  Incedently, I have a similar unit for my refrigerator.  If it turns out the fans are not the culprite, is there anything I can swap out to chase down the bad component?

Thank you very much for your help
Regards
Frank 

Richard

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Re: Old Adler Barbour Trouble
« Reply #3 on: April 15, 2014, 07:05:02 pm »
If you wait till the no start problem occurs and then do the tests recommended you will pinpoint the problem area. Ninety % of the time it will be a voltage spike causing problem or fan drawing too much current because of dry/worn bearings or one of the 10 transistors in muffin type fan is faulty. After bypassing boats complete electrical system and problem is gone away begain isolation of each area circuit breaker and switches first then wire sections.

FrankP

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Re: Old Adler Barbour Trouble
« Reply #4 on: April 19, 2014, 04:32:05 pm »
Rich,
All the tests point to the module.  Can you repair mine or is it best to buy a new one from you for $165?  Also, if I send you my module, how much do charge to verify it is the problem?

Thanks
Frank

FrankP

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Re: Old Adler Barbour Trouble
« Reply #5 on: April 21, 2014, 10:17:42 am »
Good Morning Rich,
I just looked back at tyour e-mails and see that you charge $20 to check the units.  My only question then is do you repair the old units and if so how much does it typically cost?

Thanks
Frank

Richard

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Re: Old Adler Barbour Trouble
« Reply #6 on: April 21, 2014, 10:42:05 am »
 Sixty present of the time when I test modules they are good and final fix is not a problem with refrigeration unit it is a problem with boat's power grid or wiring.

No I do not repair modules and know of no one that can repair them.

I do not charge to test modules but I do charge if module tests good for insured return Priority shipping.

alnmar

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Re: Old Adler Barbour Trouble
« Reply #7 on: August 06, 2014, 03:26:09 pm »
Hello
I have a vintage 1996 Alder Barbour Super Cold Machine. Module is 102N3031, the compressor uses the 134r refr.
The unit had run with out problem until we had a power outage on the dock and the unattended boat was with out power for at least a week. The batteries were flat and the refrigeration system was out when we got back and found the problem.
We've restored power and now with full power to the refrigeration unit the box will cool fine but after a while the system starts to cycle. At first it will run briefly then after a while it starts to experience a few shorter and shorter runs until the all it does is deflect the amp meter. If I shut it down at the breaker and wait several hours it will repeat the above.
Any suggestions?

Thank you
Alan

Richard

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Re: Old Adler Barbour Trouble
« Reply #8 on: August 07, 2014, 09:34:36 am »
Hello
I have a vintage 1996 Alder Barbour Super Cold Machine. Module is 102N3031, the compressor uses the 134r refr.
The unit had run with out problem until we had a power outage on the dock and the unattended boat was with out power for at least a week. The batteries were flat and the refrigeration system was out when we got back and found the problem.
We've restored power and now with full power to the refrigeration unit the box will cool fine but after a while the system starts to cycle. At first it will run briefly then after a while it starts to experience a few shorter and shorter runs until the all it does is deflect the amp meter. If I shut it down at the breaker and wait several hours it will repeat the above.
Any suggestions?

Thank you
Alan

I would first blame the boats DC power grid or boats wiring. Second I would question fan bearings. If the engine alternator is running will refrigerator operate correctly?

Standard Troubleshooting for 4  pin compressors with the 3031 module.

Troubleshooting 4 pin modules consists of the following:

1. Place jumper wire across thermostat terminals, Compressor still does not run.

2. Disconnect black fan wire from electronic module, Compressor runs replace fan. Compressor still does not run after fan ground wire is disconnected. If one of the 10 transistors in this fan fail it can cause module to prevent compressor from running.

3. Run correct size and correct polarity fused jumper wires direct from a fully charged battery to module in order to bypass all boat’s wiring. Volt meter readings are of no value, Compressor still does not run electronic module needs to be tested on another unit.

I closed my shop but after seeing what is being charged by boat refrigeration companies  who will test modules charging $50 and charging as high as $385 for new 4 pin modules, I decided to test and sell modules for a fraction of what is currently being charged.

If your shipping address is in the US I will test your module on my Danfoss compressor refrigeration test stand.  This test stand will run at max compressor load for a one hour. I will  then return your module to you for a shipping and handling charge of  $20.  Ship module with return address and a personal check for $20 to:
Richard Kollmann
2430 Sugarloaf LN
Ft. Lauderdale FL 33312

New replacement Module

If you wish to purchase a new or serviceable unit from me later I currently have the following four pin modules:

Four pin modules for BD2, BD2.5 and BD3   twelve volt compressors only:
 
No used modules available at this time.

New module non Danfoss    With improved cooling.  $150  plus $15 shipping.

Modules will only be shipped to addresses in the US. If you want to purchase a new replacement module send personal check for $165 and return address to:

Richard Kollmann
2430 Sugarloaf LN
Ft. Lauderdale FL 33312


Because your unit is old and if it needs a new electronic module there is a risk that something is wrong that caused module to fail so most companies will refuse warranty of these modules. This is my electronic module warranty:
Any new module I sell can be returned for full credit without question within 30 days . Because of my own risk involved for the next 11 months I will return only 50% of the new units purchase price if module is returned within the first year.
 
Richard Kollmann



alnmar

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Re: Old Adler Barbour Trouble
« Reply #9 on: August 07, 2014, 04:28:46 pm »
Hello Richard
thanks for the quick reply.
The engine alternator can run but testing the A/B ref will take some time. The unit runs long enough to cool the box maybe 4 or 5 hours, but then the ref unit  it won't restart.
I can run the trouble shooting you mentioned to see if it's the fan or thermostat.

It's just a puzzle I can't seem to solve. You mentioned the fan bearings. How could I check them? Will the make a rough or grinding sound? Would a bad module cause the run to temp and then not restart issue we're having?

Thanks again

alnmar

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Re: Old Adler Barbour Trouble
« Reply #10 on: August 09, 2014, 05:05:50 pm »
Hello Richard

I followed the check list for trouble shooting the system and found that when the unit is connected directly to a fresh 12v battery it runs just fine. I let it run a bit, disconnected reconnected the boat's primary battery bank and the problem came back, that is it the fan would turn, the compressor engage and then drop off line. I reconnected a known good battery and she ran again.

For now I'm going to assume the problem lies in the house batteries, which as I'd mentioned had been run flat by a power outage on the dock and no battery charger to keep them charged. It's still hard to believe that 5, 105ah AGM batteries,connected to an operating charger, and showing 13.20 volts on the system can't keep the refrigeration unit running. But when I hooked it to the standby battery from my gen set, the compressor and fan ran strong.

Thanks for you help.
Alnmar

Richard

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Re: Old Adler Barbour Trouble
« Reply #11 on: August 10, 2014, 02:34:12 pm »
What you have now proven is there is a bad connection causing a microsecond voltage spike in boats refrigerator supply wiring. Old wiring too small, bad ground, bad contacts in switch or circuit breaker or just a corroded terminal. Start bypassing each item above.

FrankP

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Re: Old Adler Barbour Trouble
« Reply #12 on: August 16, 2014, 09:46:30 pm »
Hello Richard,
The new module and the addition of the a relay for the second fan worked great and the freezer was working great until just recently.  Now I have no cooling at the evaporator plate.  The compressor is running and drawing around 5 to 6 amps and I can hear the normal "hissing" sound in the box.  However the evaporator and cooling line show no sign of cooling.  This decline occured over the course of 5 days and I am assuming it is a leak.  Is there a quick a dirty way to check the system for leaks before I hire a technician?  The system is 20 years old and has been running non-stop since new and I am thinking it may be time to replace it.

Thanks
Frank

Richard

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Re: Old Adler Barbour Trouble
« Reply #13 on: August 18, 2014, 12:01:36 pm »
You started with an electrical problem causing compressor not to run. Now you are reporting compressor runs and is drawing 5 to 6 amps this indicates system has enough refrigerant. If this is what you see after running system for 20 minutes and no frost on evaporator I do not have an answer. When low on refrigerant and no cooling compressor and fan should only draw around 3 amps.

S/V Our Way Too

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Re: Old Adler Barbour Trouble
« Reply #14 on: October 29, 2014, 08:10:27 pm »
I have 2 Adler Barbour units in our boat. I just installed an audio amplifier to the stereo system. As soon as one of the refrigeration units start we hear the squeal and then the running of the compressor thru the speakers.
The refrigeration units are the only thing that we hear in the radio.
My question is! Is their some thing wrong with my systems or do i need to put some kind of a noise filter inline with them?
Thank you for any help!